The Cuesta de Miranda Pass and our first disaster!

Mario, at Hotel Rustico, had drawn us a map to our next destination taking the scenic route. He said the Cuesta de Miranda was unmissable, an absolutely beautiful drive on the famous Route 40, Argentina's longest road. The roads were all good and the whole journey would take us 6-7 hours

after leaving the Park. After leaving the Valley of the Moon I calculated we had enough time, so we went for it!

In Northern Argentina gas stations are few and far between and they may not have any gas when you get there, so you fill up at every opportunity. On this journey I topped up three times, although bear in mind we travelled 700km, and our fuel gauge was suspect! We drove through the Talampaya Park with wide expanses of scrub land and vistas to the mountains. We did not have time to stop at the Ranger Centre but pressed on to Villa Union at the entrance to the Vinchina Valley to the North, and separated from Chilecito to the West by the Sanogasta mountain range which the Cuesta de Miranda Pass crosses.

The pass was spectacular, a red rock canyon where giant cacti grew beside the road and up into the hills. As we climbed the road deteriorated and the top 20km of the pass was negotiated across a rock ridden loose dirt and gravel track with steep drops to one side protected by large, haphazardly placed

boulders. This wasn't a place to meet traffic coming from the other direction. Once over the top the road improved and I was able to free wheel down for 23 km, surely a record.

Our journey for the day was not done. We had another 250km to travel and by now the sun was low in the sky behind us. We travelled North to Pitul, then San Blas, before turning South East to Catamarca. At the small town of Amaicha the highway just petered out, and with no clear direction signs, I had no choice but to negotiate the tortuous maze of narrow one-way streets. As much by good luck as good judgement, I eventually picked up a main road on the far side of town, and several kilometres later a sign confirmed this was the correct route. Road signage is notoriously poor in Argentina.

With twilight upon us we entered yet another pass between the mountains. Behind us the Andes were silhouetted in orange and the last rays of the sun lit up the canyon walls. Suddenly we came upon an amazing spectacle. The gorge was full of giant cacti, and with the onset of darkness, each one had

opened its clusters of beautiful pink flowers to attract moths and insects. It was an unforgettable sight.

Our hotel for the night was La Aguada, a few kilometres outside of San Fernando Del Valle De Catamarca, and highly recommended on TripAdvisor. After a long drive I was looking forward to a good meal and comfortable bed.
The hotel had not supplied us with directions but I had taken the precaution of printing these out from Google maps. The problem was these weren't accurate and in the dark we had no idea where to look. After a few fruitless searches I stopped at a taxi rank in the centre of Catamarca and persuaded the driver to take Anni to the hotel whilst I followed behind. 5 minutes later he dumped Anni at a gas station and demanded a fare. Between the taxi driver and the pump attendant, neither of whom spoke any English, we worked out that the hotel was 20km back the way we had come. Exasperated, we set off, retracing our steps. 10km back we stopped at a police check-point and with much gesticulating of hands, worked out the hotel was next right, go 2kms, then right again. Sure enough, we found the sign, and proceeded along a dusty farm track in the hills as directed, in pitch darkness. Finally we

arrived at the hotel gates. They were shut and padlocked. There was no intercom, no other means of access, and no lights visible down the long drive. We phoned the hotel and got an answer phone message. Disaster! Clearly we weren't expected, despite the fact I had a confirmation of reservation from the Booking Agent. It was by now 10pm. With no other choice open to us, I drove back into town and eventually found a hotel there. We ate, Anni had two whiskies, and we collapsed into bed. Sleep did not come easily. I guess some day we will laugh about this, but not right now!

The day we went to the Moon

We travelled to Ischigualasto National Park, 72km from our hotel in St Agustin. Mario, the owner, had told us the Park opened at 9 am and the first tour would start around 10am when they had enough cars to organise a Ranger led excursion around the Valle de la Luna trail. We arrived at 9.40 and, of course, the first trip had already left, although as we purchased our ticket we were told to drive 1km down the track and catch them up. This is a self-drive tour. The cars follow the Ranger in a long, snaking, caravan, that at times resembled a procession following a hearse at a funeral! There are 5 stops along the route where the Ranger explains the particular features of the geology (in Spanish) and you are able to walk around and take photos. The landscape was formed between 230million and 180 million years ago in the Jurassic and Triassic Ages. Many dinosaur skeletons have been found. The experience was at times surreal. It was like walking on the surface of the moon. The rocks were twisted into fantastic formations, and the colours, from grey, through orange, and into reds were astounding. We saw the Sphinx, we saw mushrooms, we saw a submarine, and a field of perfectly spherical rocks strewn across the ground like footballs. The total tour was around 40 km and lasted over 3 hours. Like all the National Parks there was one set of charges for the locals, and another higher rate for foreigners. This one, at $50US for two, was perhaps a bit on the expensive side, although if we had had a good understanding of Spanish then I am sure we would have found the Ranger's talk excellent. As it was he managed a brief summary at each stop in English for us, the only foreigners present.

Eating and Sleeping in St Agustin del Valle Fertil

After 200km of driving across barren desert encountering nothing more than the occasional tiny settlement our expectations were not high. How wrong could we be?

St Agustin did not look much as we entered the town. A petrol garage, a coach having its tyre changed, a roadside cafe, some single storey dwellings, and the usual run of stray dogs. Our B&B took some tracking down on account of the fact the owner had taken down the signs for repainting, but when we turned in to Cerro del Valle Hotel Rustico, we were in for a pleasant surprise. We were met by Mario, the owner, who showed us to our room. It was possibly the cleanest room we have stayed in during this holiday and Mario had made all the furniture himself. This included the beds, the table, the chairs, and the light fittings. Moreover the price was very reasonable ($80US), and Mario could not have been more helpful in offering us advice, giving us directions, making suggestions for the next day and so on. His breakfasts, too, were excellent, including fresh baked bread, a selection of fruit and good tea and coffee. There was a guest swimming pool which we did not get the opportunity to try, although like everywhere else it looked very clean.

On Mario's recommendation we ate at the roadside cafe opposite the gas station. Once again appearances were misleading. We had the best steak we had ever eaten, and the creme caramel desert was delightful. Mario's advice to order only one steak between us was spot on. It was huge, at 750gms more than enough to feed a family of four. Washed down with a great bottle of Malbec, and with change from $20US, it was the best value, best tasting meal we had enjoyed.

The Cuyo

Today was a driving day - a long driving day. We started by heading back through Mendoza, and then turned North keeping the Andes as our constant companion, some 25km to the West. Cuyo means desert land, and this described the landscape perfectly- barren and featureless. The temperature began to climb, and a heat haze hung over the long straight road so that oncoming cars appeared to be floating towards us. At one point there appeared to our right an enormous lake as far as the eye could

see. It was, of course, a mirage. Despite the dryness of the area, this is also the main wine growing area of Argentina, making use of melt waters from the high Andes brought here by long irrigation channels. The crops were being harvested and we passed many a lorry piled high with grapes making their way to one of the cooperatives where they would queue for their turn to unload.

We turned West, then Northwest, striking out across the Sierra de Alto Pencoso and still the temperature climbed, topping out at 31 degrees. Over the next 200km the landscape became cruel and inhospitable and settlements were few and far between. The houses were made of adobe (a mud and clay brick mix) with bamboo roofs. It was a poor area. We saw farmers managing their small herds of goats, or driving a horse and cart to collect firewood. There were road signs warning of cattle straying

on to the road, but the only cattle we saw were recently dead carcasses being picked over by big black vultures. From a distance we could see a number of the large birds circling ahead, and as we approached we saw they were feasting on two dead donkeys, one on either side of the road. Not much survives here.

We arrived in the small town of St Agustin de Valle Fertil, our base for the night, and were warmly welcomed at the Hotel Rustico by our host, Mario.

Eating & Sleeping in Mendoza

We stayed in the village of Chacras de Coria, about 12km south of Mendoza, on the edge of the vineyards. The town was at the centre of a crossroads. The approach roads from all directions were lined with plane trees providing a lovely green canopy of shade. The temperature, a pleasant 21degrees, made a welcome change from the stifling humidity of Easter Island, although this was exceptional. Temperatures often remain in the 40's from September to May. The town had a nice feel about it.

Our B&B, Casa Glebinias, is situated an easy 10minute walk from the town centre in a quiet residential street. We were shown pictures of the site in 1982 when it was a barren wasteland. Now the owners have created a park that provides a wonderful oasis of colour in which three or four cottages have been skilfully hidden. We have the first floor of one which you ascend to via a twisting stone staircase, giving the impression of a turreted castle. There is a tiny semi-circular balcony with room for 2 chairs and a table, where you feel you are sitting amongst the tree canopy. Inside the clever use of arches and vaulted, beamed ceilings reinforces the castle theme, and although only small, the whole place feels spacious. There is a microwave as well as a fridge, and the washbasin is artfully suspended over the top of the stairwell. The WC and shower room leads off to the side of the bedroom. The architectural design is extremely clever, and the furnishings show a lot of care and attention to detail.

The breakfast room, lounge and bar, are in the main building, and have also been tastefully furnished and cleverly designed. Breakfast was simple, fresh fruit salad, cereal, ham, several types of bread and croissants, a choice of jams, and a selection of teas and coffee.

The garden is beautiful. There are trees with foliage in many different colours from lime green to bottle green, from purple to blue. There are many different varieties of fruit trees, some of which I have never seen before. The paths gently curve as they lead you around the garden, and to the side of the main house there is a lovely 17metre pool with conveniently placed recliners and seating.

If you do not want to eat out in the evening the hotel will prepare you a snack with tasty empanadas. We took the short walk to the town centre where there are a range of shops and several restaurants. We chose an Italian restaurant, Placere, in Calle Mitre, just off the main square. We shared an unusual fish empanada starter, and then I tried the local speciality of river fish (which I think was trout) while Anni had pasta with salmon. The Crumble de Manzona (apple crumble!) was delicious. The food was good, the service was good, the restaurant was bright and cheerful and the menu reasonably priced.

We would certainly recommend staying at Casa Glebinias. It was one of the nicest places we had stayed in during our time in Argentina and Chile.

Mendoza: Wine Tasting

We left Easter Island, flew back to Santiago, put our watches forward 2 hours, and spent the night in the Holiday Inn at the airport, our last night in Chile. Next stop, Mendoza, Argentina.

 

On the map Chile's capital, Santiago, and Mendoza in The Cuyo province of Argentina look only a short distance apart.  The two are linked on the Argentinian side by the Uspallata Pass which climbs over 3000 meters (9,840 ft)in the shadow of Cerro Aconcagua, at 6,962 metres (22,840ft) the highest peak outside of Asia.  My Insight Guide described this as a spectacular trip, although warned of the danger of frequent rock and snow slides outside the brief summer season.  The guidebook picture of a tortuous, hairpin infested, switchback road appealed to my adrenalin fuelled driving instincts but set Anni's teeth on edge.  She recalls a nerve-racking experience in the winter in Utah some years ago where we cut across 60 miles of unmade tracks in a Cadillac in order to shorten our journey from Monument Valley to Las Vegas.  We learned on our return home that another English couple had died around the same time when their car went off the road. The husband perished in deep snow drifts when he went for help and the wife was not found until it was too late. Sadly, despite my enthusiasm, or maybe luckily in Anni's case, I could find no car hire company prepared to let us cross the border, so instead we took a short one hour flight with LAN from Santiago.

Church in the Plaza of Chacras de Coria

It was a short flight, only 170 miles, flying at 27,000 feet, so not that much clearance over the higher peaks. The views during the flight were amazing. It was a bright, cloudless day, and we were treated to panoramic views of the Andes, the higher peaks covered in snow.  On the Argentinian side of the mountain range the ground was criss-crossed with faint long, straight lines, running parallel to each other, perhaps about 5km apart,  and always intersecting at precise angles.  From the air they could have passed for the Argentinian equivalent of the Nazca Lines in Peru, although I suspect these were the remains of the fist irrigation channels built by the early settlers to bring water from the Andes to the fertile plains.

Mendoza has been destroyed by earthquakes and rebuilt many times. It was founded by the Spanish in 1561, driven here from their territories across the Andes in Chile by reports that the area contained a vast wealth in precious minerals including gold.  Uranium, copper and lead mines can still be found scattered throughout the mountains, although it is petroleum that has brought real prosperity to the area.  Despite the dryness of the region the area is also the primary wine growing region in Argentina, itself the 5th largest wine producer in the world, with vineyards irrigated by the melt waters from the Andes.

There was some confusion when we picked up our rental car at the airport. I had already been quoted an extortionate amount for a one-way drop off fee, but the salesman wanted to charge us even more! I stood my ground and produced our documentation, which he insisted on copying to send off to Buenos Aires.  The argument pursued us to our destination as a message was waiting for us at the hotel to call Hertz. He wanted to keep the original documentation and give us back the copy.  Would we return to the airport to sort it out?  At this point I should explain there is no ring-road round Mendoza, and we had already driven through this city of 1million inhabitants to get here. I wasn't going back. Fortunately, the very helpful Mariella at the hotel agreed, so I took photographs of the documents, uploaded them to her computer, and she sorted it out from there. (I think!).  

Our hotel  is fantastic!! If you normally skip the "Eating & Sleeping" posts, don't miss this one, because Casa Glebinias in the small town of Chacras de Coria, 12km south of Mendoza, is simply outstanding.

After an hour to relax we made the short drive to a nearby vineyard for a tour and wine tasting session. But this was not just any vineyard. Alta Vista is one of the premier vineyards in Argentina, and has produced world famous wines that have received the most prestigious awards. Interestingly for over 100 years it was Spanish owned, but then a few years ago was taken over by the French producers of Taittinger Champagne. They still use some of the original processes, including allowing the wine to rest for 40 days between maceration and fermentation in concrete (originally adobe) vessels. For the Alta range, the grapes are individually hand picked by a specialised team, women only, apparently because they can discern a greater range of colours than men. This is supposedly borne out by a much lower incidence of colour blindness in women than in men.  Taittinger have taken the blending of grape varieties to a new level of sophistication, and the wines we tasted were proof of their success.  We tried the Alta red, it was exquisite, but at $120 US a bottle it was too exclusive for us.  However, $10 US for a large glass was a bargain! We enjoyed the Malbec ($30 US a bottle), were indifferent to the blended Bonarda ($20 US), but loved the Torrontes ($16 US), surprisingly so for us as we don't normally drink white wine. Freight charges of $468 US to the UK for 30 bottles ruled out sending any home, but armed with one bottle, we returned to our hotel, to enjoy a couple of hours of pure decadence before dinner.

Eating and Sleeping on Easter Island

On our last morning on this Island paradise, we chatted with a lovely couple from Colorado and swapped travel stories. (If you are reading this,Sherry and Gary, we hope your new born Angus Bull is doing well!). We walked down to the harbour and watched the giant sea turtles swimming lazily between the fishing boats, waiting for scraps.

We stayed at Kaimana Lodge in Hanga Roa. We were met at the airport by the owner, Marcelo, and given a quick guided tour of the village before we checked in. Unless you are prepared to pay $1000 US to $1600 US a night to stay at the Explora, your choice is between a number of "residenciales", small, owner run B&B's. Ours was a chalet style accommodation with 7 chalets clustered around a central covered courtyard with an open lounge and a communal area for breakfast. The rooms were fairly basic, but adequate. The good things about Kaimana were the helpfulness of Marcelo, and the opportunity to sit with like minded travellers and share our stories. The not so good things were that the room was not always cleaned during our stay, and the breakfast choice was limited. Breakfast consisted of a plate of mixed food - fruit, pancake, mini-omelette, slice of ham - plus bread and jam. For us that was fine, although I can imagine it would not be to everybody's taste. At the end of our stay Marcelo drove us to the airport and stayed with us until all the checking-in formalities were complete. He bought us parting gifts. It was a nice touch.

On our first night we ate at Haka Honu, a little restaurant up just above the small harbour in the town. We arrived at 8.30pm and found the only remaining table, a sure sign of the restaurant's popularity. The staff welcomed us with big smiles like we were old friends returning home. Food everywhere on the Island is more expensive than the mainland because everything has to be imported, but for $80 US we enjoyed a starter, a. very fine beef steak, 2 fillets of fresh caught fish, a beer, and Anni's new compulsory drink, a Pisco Sour. Some lively Portuguese music was being played that really seemed to fit the mood, and the waiter offered to make a copy of it for us. We went back here on our last night. The food was just as good but the waitress had trouble understanding our order and brought out additional food that we hadn't ordered. She had beauty and attitude - a lethal combination! When we pointed out we had been undercharged, we received a petulant shrug of the shoulders and the bill was re-written. As we left the stunning smile and hand wave were back on display, but this time it felt a bit manufactured.

On our second night we ate at La Kaleta, situated in an outstanding location right on the harbour front. The view of the sunset was perfect from here. The shrimp risotto was excellent, and it worked out to be very good value for money.