You really need a 4x4 for this journey. We don't have one! The road starts pleasantly enough, a good Tarmac hugging the coastline as it passes through a succession of tiny fishing villages, each one with it's wooden fishing boats and nets strung across the bay on bobbing floats. Then the pavement runs out and for the last 10km, hemmed in by steep mountains on one side, and a precipitous drop to the ocean on the other, we negotiate pot holes and rock slides to the port of Caleta la Arena. (Caleta is a local word meaning fishing village). As we join the short queue for the ferry we debate whether the road on the other side of the estuary would be better or worse. We know that amany more kilometres of gravel road lie ahead. Should we turn around and head back to Puerto Montt?
The mist rolls down the side of the mountain behind us. The possibility of retreat seems cut off. The local pack of stray dogs moves slowly down the line of waiting cars, christening the tyres of each one in turn. The ferry appears from around the headland and we are committed.
As we cross the Reloncavi Estuary the mist clears away and we are rewarded with beautiful views to the mountains and along the fjord. Large numbers of pelicans take to the air as we pass, their graceful flight belying their pterodactyl appearance. At Caleta Puelche the ferry manoeuvres into a spot that seems impossible for a vessel that size to navigate - but somehow it manages. The road, although still loose gravel, is in better condition, and we make our way northwards hugging the estuary. The views are stunningly beautiful. Both sides of the route are lined with fuschias, some as tall as trees. Every few metres a waterfall plunges down the steep mountainside to our right and under the road. We drive over countless bridges made of little more than a few wooden planks.
I stop the car and we walk a little. We spot humming birds making their way from one fuschia bush to the next. The air is full of the sound of rushing water, and the pleasant smell of wood smoke from the cooking fires of the few simple fishermen's homes along the way. Life is uncomplicated here. All that is required is a roof over your head, a cow, a few sheep, some hens, maybe a pig, and, of course, a large satellite dish. Most people make a living from fishing, but otherwise are self-sufficient.
Today the cloud cover is low, but on a clear day there are volcanos as far as the eye can see. From Osamo and Calbuco to Yate, to Homopiren, and all the way to the horizon where the still erupting Chalten can just be spotted. There are around 10 volcanos lined up along this stretch of the Andes.
Eventually, after about 3 hours, the gravelled road ends at the head of the estuary, and on a good road surface we make our way to Lake Llanquihue and our B&B for the next two nights. Just before we arrive the sky briefly clears and we are rewarded with our first view of the impressive, snow covered,Volcano Osomo. The view is incredible.
As for our car? It may not have been a 4x4, but our Kia saloon has survived everything that has been thrown at it, and come away none the worse for wear. Jeremy Clarkson would have been proud!
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