Glacier in Retreat

I've resisted from saying this for 3 days, but today I give in: "Chile is chilly". We were up at 6.30 this morning, before first light, an early start for an all day tour. As we walked up the street to catch our shuttle bus our breath condensed in the cold air. The forecast had been for cloud and drizzle in the morning, and although it wasn't actually raining, it was certainly cold and overcast. The bus dropped us at the quayside and we boarded the "Alberto De Agostini", the motor yacht that would take us up the Senoret Channel and into the Bernard O'Higgins National Park.

As we sailed further into the Park the mountains closed in and acted like magnets to the lowering clouds. Long slivers of mist hung around their sides, and the tops were lost behind an impenetrable wall of white. The peaks of Torres del Paine that we had so enjoyed yesterday were hidden from view. We passed a colony of white throated cormorants. We looked in vain for the sea lions, and in despair at the tall sea cliffs that should have been home to condors.

After 4 hours, in great anticipation, we approached the Balmaceda Glacier. My guidebook noted that tourists flock here to watch the icebergs crash in to the sea, sending shock waves across the boat. Camera at the ready. Reality: the glacier has receded 40metres up the mountainside and no longer reaches the sea. Apparently it has been this way for 15 years, although my guidebook, revised in 2002, has not been updated.

We tie up to a jetty and undertake a one hour circular walk to the Serrano Glacier. This proves to be the highlight of the trip. We enjoy the walk through the trees where the sides of the path are covered with berry laden bushes, alpine flowers, and wild fuschias.

Estancia Perales

On the return trip we stop at an Estancia and enjoy a lamb BBQ served with a very satisfying glass of red wine. Suddenly the clouds melt away, the sun comes out, the temperature lifts, and we enjoy a pleasant cruise back to Puerto Natales. As we step of the bus back in the town centre... it starts to rain!