The Cuesta de Miranda Pass and our first disaster!

Mario, at Hotel Rustico, had drawn us a map to our next destination taking the scenic route. He said the Cuesta de Miranda was unmissable, an absolutely beautiful drive on the famous Route 40, Argentina's longest road. The roads were all good and the whole journey would take us 6-7 hours

after leaving the Park. After leaving the Valley of the Moon I calculated we had enough time, so we went for it!

In Northern Argentina gas stations are few and far between and they may not have any gas when you get there, so you fill up at every opportunity. On this journey I topped up three times, although bear in mind we travelled 700km, and our fuel gauge was suspect! We drove through the Talampaya Park with wide expanses of scrub land and vistas to the mountains. We did not have time to stop at the Ranger Centre but pressed on to Villa Union at the entrance to the Vinchina Valley to the North, and separated from Chilecito to the West by the Sanogasta mountain range which the Cuesta de Miranda Pass crosses.

The pass was spectacular, a red rock canyon where giant cacti grew beside the road and up into the hills. As we climbed the road deteriorated and the top 20km of the pass was negotiated across a rock ridden loose dirt and gravel track with steep drops to one side protected by large, haphazardly placed

boulders. This wasn't a place to meet traffic coming from the other direction. Once over the top the road improved and I was able to free wheel down for 23 km, surely a record.

Our journey for the day was not done. We had another 250km to travel and by now the sun was low in the sky behind us. We travelled North to Pitul, then San Blas, before turning South East to Catamarca. At the small town of Amaicha the highway just petered out, and with no clear direction signs, I had no choice but to negotiate the tortuous maze of narrow one-way streets. As much by good luck as good judgement, I eventually picked up a main road on the far side of town, and several kilometres later a sign confirmed this was the correct route. Road signage is notoriously poor in Argentina.

With twilight upon us we entered yet another pass between the mountains. Behind us the Andes were silhouetted in orange and the last rays of the sun lit up the canyon walls. Suddenly we came upon an amazing spectacle. The gorge was full of giant cacti, and with the onset of darkness, each one had

opened its clusters of beautiful pink flowers to attract moths and insects. It was an unforgettable sight.

Our hotel for the night was La Aguada, a few kilometres outside of San Fernando Del Valle De Catamarca, and highly recommended on TripAdvisor. After a long drive I was looking forward to a good meal and comfortable bed.
The hotel had not supplied us with directions but I had taken the precaution of printing these out from Google maps. The problem was these weren't accurate and in the dark we had no idea where to look. After a few fruitless searches I stopped at a taxi rank in the centre of Catamarca and persuaded the driver to take Anni to the hotel whilst I followed behind. 5 minutes later he dumped Anni at a gas station and demanded a fare. Between the taxi driver and the pump attendant, neither of whom spoke any English, we worked out that the hotel was 20km back the way we had come. Exasperated, we set off, retracing our steps. 10km back we stopped at a police check-point and with much gesticulating of hands, worked out the hotel was next right, go 2kms, then right again. Sure enough, we found the sign, and proceeded along a dusty farm track in the hills as directed, in pitch darkness. Finally we

arrived at the hotel gates. They were shut and padlocked. There was no intercom, no other means of access, and no lights visible down the long drive. We phoned the hotel and got an answer phone message. Disaster! Clearly we weren't expected, despite the fact I had a confirmation of reservation from the Booking Agent. It was by now 10pm. With no other choice open to us, I drove back into town and eventually found a hotel there. We ate, Anni had two whiskies, and we collapsed into bed. Sleep did not come easily. I guess some day we will laugh about this, but not right now!