Buenos Aires

Arguably the most cosmopolitan city in all South America, Argentina's historic capital has breathtaking energy, spacious grandeur, and self-confident style.

So says my Insight Guide.

The brightly painted houses of La Boca

La Boca

There is certainly plenty here to keep the tourist occupied for several days, and undeniably the city is a vibrant, exciting place.  However, Buenos Aires is the only place on this trip that we have  been to before and we covered the major tourist sites on our last visit here.  So today we are content to pick up a map from the hotel reception, step,out the door, and see where our feet take us.

We are staying in the fashionable barrios (district) of Palermo Soho. It's a bohemian suburb, teeming with great restaurants, bars, and trendy shops.  Apparently it is also the most favoured place of many of Argentina's most famous fashion designers, so Anni is feeling very much at home here.  Our first stop is the botanical gardens, unfortunately closed, so we amble on to, where else, but the zoo!  The Muscovy ducks and some unidentifiable species of small deer roam freely here.  There are flamingos, monkeys, a tiger, a lion, penguins and a reptile house.  We are amused by two bears who have apparently learned to beg for food.

We cross over the Avenida del Libertador admiring the grand sculpture at the intersection with Avenida Sarimiento, and go in search of the rose garden. We can't find it! Instead we cross the park and head for the Japanese garden.  It's a beautiful, tranquil retreat from the bustle of the city streets and we spend some time here enjoying the views.  We enjoy an ice cream in the shape of a fish, which rejuvenates us, and soak up the warm afternoon sun for a while.  When we left England it was cold, and the wind had set in from the East, bringing the probability of snow from Central Europe. What a difference here!

Everyone goes to La Recoleta Cemetary, the burial ground for the rich and famous. It is like a city in miniature with streets lined with huge mausoleums in conflicting architectural styles.  Many have glass doors allowing a view of the coffins inside.  Evita is buried here with other members of the Duarte family, allegedly 9 metres underground to keep her enemies from stealing her body.  The authorities don't publicise this as they don't regard her as being important enough to justify a plot.  They neglect to tell you that Peron wasn't buried here, but in a lesser cemetary elsewhere in the city.

We work our way back to the hotel for a rest and time to freshen up before dinner.  Last time we were here we did the obligatory Tango dinner, (photos from that occasion attached), and I know the hotel would make us a reservation.  But we can't visit Buenos Aires without eating a steak so we take up the hotel's recommendation of a nearby steakhouse.

Eating and Sleeping

 I wanted to stay somewhere special whilst in BA and chose the small  boutique Hotel Duque some months ago whilst researching accommodation on TripAdvisor.  I am delighted to see that in the intervening months it has risen to be ranked #4 of 437 hotels in BA, and it certainly deserves it's reputation.  We arrived at 11am, well before the designated check-in time of 3pm, feeling in need of some rest.  The reception staff made us extremely welcome, took care of our bags, and showed us to a small lounge and garden area where we able to enjoy a selection of free pastries, tea and coffee.    They also dealt with our questions concerning our onwards travel arrangements and 
offered to provide an early breakfast for us the next day.  Before we knew it a room had been made ready and we were able to put our feet up and plan our day.  We have a deluxe room costing 160USD a night.  It's simply, but beautifully furnished, and the bed is huge!  None of your modern plastic fittings here.  The hotel also has a spa containing a jacuzzi and sauna, both of which we made use of, as well as a massage room and a "Scottish" shower. Apparently that's one that squirts water at you from nozzles in all directions!

The hotel made an 8.30 reservation for us at Don Julio's, which, according to them was one of the best steakhouses in Buenos Aires, and was only 3 blocks away.  By 9.30 the place was buzzing and people were waiting on the pavement outside for a table.  The restaurant was popular with locals - always a good sign - as well as tourists.  The ambience was authentic, slightly rustic, small wooden tables, bare brick walls, and a view of the chef cooking over an open wood fired oven. The empanadas starters were great, the wine excellent, and the steak to die for. A great recommendation by the hotel.